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I easily changed my cabin filter without issues, but now wish to change my engine air filter. Is there a link to a video showing how to change the velar engine air filter? Thanks in advance to all!
 

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Robby334 said:
I easily changed my cabin filter without issues, but now wish to change my engine air filter. Is there a link to a video showing how to change the velar engine air filter? Thanks in advance to all!
How did you change the cabin filter? Cant find anything about it. Care to share locstion or some photos? Would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I don't have a video, but I did successfully change the engine air filter on my 2019 Range Rover Velar and I do have a picture to help you. Yes, Land Rover made this as hard as they possibly could so you wouldn't do it yourself. Here are the steps:

Tools:
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • T20 bit
  • A long thin bit driver... ideally magnitized. You'll probably also need a bit driver extension (also magnitized). It needs to be thin and long, and it's unlikely you'll get it done with a ratchet extension.
  • Gloves (highly recommend or you'll beat up your hands on this one)
  • Flashlight (you'll never complete step 6f without it)
  • A new filter. Yes, I know it looks too larger to fit in there. It fits. No, I don't know why it's shaped that way.
Steps (each step is labeled in the picture)
  1. Loosen this clamp with a flathead screwdriver. You don't have to fully remove it... just loosen it enough to slide the hose off.
  2. Loosen this other clamp with a flathead screwdriver. You don't have to fully remove it... just loosen it enough to slide the hose off.
  3. Remove the short hose section and put it aside.
  4. Wiggle this thing off the air filter case
  5. Remove the wiring harness (pull that grey tab back to unlock)
  6. Loosen the screws with your long thin driver and T20 bit. The screws are attached to the case and won't come out fully, so you don't have to worry about losing them.
    1. The screw at 6e is deeper than most of the others. Your driver may reach the first few but not this one.
    2. 6f is the hardest part of this job. You have to thread the driver through this hole, and then through another hole under it to reach the screw which you can only see with the help of a flashlight. That under-hole has some plastic part holding in it, and you won't be able to get through until you reach your hand under and push the plastic part down and away. It's going to keep trying to come back so you'll need to hold it out as you insert the driver.
  7. Remove the cover. Just because you've unscrewed it and unclamped it and removed everything else from it, don't assume it just comes off. First it was stuck to the bottom piece it's screwed to, so I had to pound on it, shake it, and then pry it apart with my fingers. Then I had to maneuver it endlessly to get it out past that metal frame part above it. You'll eventually get it out after cursing at it for a few minutes. You'll need to hold those tubes above it out of the way as you're removing it (careful with them).
  8. The filter is oriented the way I laid mine in the picture (that's my old dirty one). I took a leaf blower and blew some debris out of the box before putting the new filter in.
  9. Reinstall by doing everything I said in reverse.
When, on step 6e, you drop/lose your bit or other pieces and hear them pinballing down around your car, and then find yourself on your back underneath sticking your arm around and into the recess of the bumper trying to find it... remember that you're not the only one, and have a good laugh :ROFLMAO:

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Hood Automotive design
 

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Great writeup Jonathan.

I just did this last week on my wife's P380. Keep in mind that there are two filters on that model that are not interchangeable (the same trapezoidal shape as in Jonathan's post but mirror images of each other and opposite sides of the engine bay).

A long extension for the T20 is a must. Also, if you don't have a magnetized extension, take a piece of electrical tape and cover the end of the extension (sticky side out) before inserting the T20 bit. That will keep the bit from falling out while you poke around trying to reach the hard to find screws.

Also, on my car, I had a yellow tab to slide out to allow unplugging the MAF wiring harness and not a grey one.
 
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